Tea - the world's most popular drink - is one of the cornerstones of India, in terms of the country's history, economy and politics.
India is the world's largest producer, exporter and consumer of tea. Tea grows under a wide range of climatic and soil conditions - and does so across the breadth of the Indian sub-continent. The result is a variety of teas, each with its own well-defined character, which appeal to differing tastes and discerning palates all over the world.
It all began in the last century when British tea traders ousted from China set out to beat the Chinese at their own game. The result was the rapid establishment of tea plantations, mainly in north-eastern India, supported by massive investment and enterprise. Although much has changed in India since then, the tea industry has maintained and strengthened its position as a vital factor in the Indian economic and political system.
There are more than 13,000 estates, or 'gardens', in India today, employing almost a million people directly-in picking and in the factory, and a further million indirectly, in transport and tea-chest manufacture. Although the land area given over to tea growing has increased relatively slowly, production has rocketed.
One of the most important reasons for the phenomenal success of the modern tea industry in India is a continuing strong commitment to development, despite increasing competition. It is, incidentally, the only industry where foreign, i.e. British, investment was allowed to continue after Independence. The Tea Board of India, a government body, was founded specifically to promote tea. It has the authority to grant subsidies and 'soft' loans to research and development projects, and works internationally with other bodies, such as the Tea Council, to market the product and dispel any myths surrounding it.
The first popular misconception about Indian tea is that it is all the same. In fact, although all tea is produced from the same plant (Camellia sinensis), differences in climatic conditions, the season of the crop, the soil and the manufacturing processes mean that teas are as different as wines made from the same variety of grape. And just as certain wines are appropriate to certain palates or occasions, different teas fulfil different requirements. There are three main tea producing regions Assam, Darjeeling and Nilgiri. Assam, for example, is ideal for these seeking strength, while Darjeeling is noted for its delicate flavour.
Tea is further differentiated by grading and blending. Grading is a process which divides the leaves into categories according to leaf size, not quality. Whole leaf teas may be denoted OP (Orange Pekoe) or FOP (Flowery Orange Pekoe) for example - the terms identify the proportion of tips, buds or flowers in the tea. BOP means Broken Orange Pekoe, graded so because of its high quantity of broken leaves. Blending assures a consistent flavour associated with a brand name and also creates a whole range of different tastes. Earl Grey, one of the most popular blends, gets its distinctive aroma from oil of Bergamot.
The first commercial production of tea was located in Assam, in the far north-east of India. Here the tea plant was found growing wild in the jungle. up to heights of two or three metres. Now, perfectly pruned, evenly spaced tea bushes cover 210,000ha of the rolling plains either side of the Brahmaputra River. Here is a land rich in wildlife, most significantly. elephants. Although much of the region is a restricted area for visitors, it is possible to join government tours to the national parks and extensive game reserves where some of India's finest native species - the one-horned thino, leopard, tiger and wild buffalo - are protected.
Rich alluvial soil and the warm wet monsoon climate provide perfect conditions for the tea gardens to flourish. Assam tea is seasonal-the young shoots (only the top two leaves and a bud from each branch are used) are plucked from April through to November. There are considerable variations in the flavour and characteristics of tea produced at different stages of the season.
Darjeeling tea has earned the name 'champagne of teas' because of its exquisite, 'muscatel' flavour and bouquet.
The 'first flush-the sprouting of bushes which have been dormant throughout the dry season- lasts until May. Then, early rains bring on the re-growth of the bushes, and the 'second flush' leaves are plucked. Second flush Assam team is generally regarded as the finest in terms of strength, sparkle and body.
Much of this tea is processed by the orthodox method which begins with the withering of the freshly plucked leaves in warm air over 12-18 hours. The flaccid leaf is then rolled between two plates for one or two hours-to break the leaf cells and release enzymes needed for the subsequent fermentation (oxidization) stage. For this to occur, the tea is laid in a cool, humid atmosphere. The leaf is now a bright golden colour. To halt fermentation, firing takes place. Hot air (around 95°C to 120°C) is passed through the leaves for about half an hour, causing them to turn black. Second flush Assam, processed in this way, is clean and well-twisted, with a lot of golden tip.
Some tea, such as the later Assam crops, is more suitable for CTC, or crush, tear, curl manufacture. The main difference between CTC and orthodox processes is in the rolling. CTC rolling is much more severe - the leaves are literally crushed, and much reduced in size. The object is to speed up and intensify fermentation, giving a stronger, thicker brew. The dry leaf is granulated and blackish- brown.
Unlike Assam, Nilgiri teas are not seasonal. The twice-yearly monsoon in south-west India's exotic Blue Mountains means that tea can be harvested all year round. Even so, there are peaks in production. From April to May, a quarter of the annual crop is gathered, and from September to December, anything up to 40 percent of the yield is plucked. The finest, vintage teas are produced in December and January.
Nilgiri teas are milder than Assam - fragrant, bright and brisk. The mountainous terrain is incredibly varied and rich: from rocky peaks, to foothill grasslands, to dense jungle. The tea gardens cover areas from between 30m to 2,000m above sea level. This causes such variety in the flavour of the teas that Nilgiri is a tea blender's dream.
Nilgiri has a spectacular tea- growing hill station at Ootacamund, which attracts domestic and foreign visitors every year. But it is Darjeeling, high in the Himalayas of the north, which is probably the most famous hill resort in India. Cool and comfortable in the hottest season, it has been a popular retreat since the days of the Raj. Lying 2,000m above sea level, the tea-producing area in the foothills of Kanchenjunga is actually quite small-but the tea produced has earned the name 'champagne of teas' because of its exquisite, 'muscatel' flavour and bouquet.
The finest Darjeeling is produced from March to June the first and second flush-with more vintage tea gathered in October. Every garden has its own factory where the shoots are processed by the orthodox method, preserving the delicate aroma of the leaf. Darjeeling is sought after by connoisseurs, and fetches the best prices at auction.
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